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Watches & Wonders Opens With Rolex, Patek and Cartier Headliners

Early releases point to refined, wearable designs during a period of geopolitical uncertainty.

Overview

  • The Geneva fair, which opened Tuesday, brings 65 brands, including a returning Audemars Piguet, and about 60,000 expected visitors for a week of launches running through April 20.
  • Rolex marked the Oyster’s 100th year with a centenary Oyster Perpetual 41, a multicolour Oyster Perpetual 36, an overhauled Yacht‑Master II built on calibre 4162, a new Jubilee Gold Day‑Date 40, and a Rolesium Daytona.
  • Patek Philippe unveiled 20 watches that include a wristwatch showing sunrise and sunset times, the house’s first modern wristwatch automaton, and four limited Nautilus pieces for the model’s 50th anniversary.
  • Cartier leaned into form and wearability with the Roadster’s return, a large Santos‑Dumont on a new flexible mesh‑style bracelet, jeweled Baignoire updates, and reworked Tortue models in varied sizes.
  • Analysts at the show said the Middle East war is weighing on forecasts for Swiss watch exports and tourism, with expectations shifting from modest growth to flat sales after two consecutive annual declines.