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3mo ago

Milan Menswear Closes With Comfort-First Luxury as Prada Refines and Armani Marks a New Chapter

Designers signaled stability through updated classics to reassure customers in a volatile moment.

The collection was titled, "Before and Next," predicting trends of the future by revisiting those of the past.
Though, dressier options are never far, and pieces from its more premium Purple brand seamlessly followed.
Ralph Lauren proved that the scope of its customer base could skew younger, as it presented colorful, sportier pieces from its Polo range.
Giorgio Armani stayed true to its roots in smart relaxed dressing, presenting signature pieces such as Mandarin collared shirts, cable knits and dropped-shoulder jackets in its latest menswear show.

Overview

  • Prada’s autumn/winter 2026 show, led by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, embraced “evolution without erasure” with slim, precise tailoring and protective capes, as Simons emphasized clarity and reassurance.
  • Ralph Lauren returned to Milan after 24 years with Polo and Purple Label, revisiting American staples from tweeds to varsity pieces under senior creative director John Wrazej.
  • Giorgio Armani presented its first collection since the founder’s death with a “cangiante” theme in rich velvets and cashmere, as Leo Dell’Orco received a standing ovation.
  • Zegna balanced structured jackets with looser, fabric-led silhouettes in natural tones, while Qasimi explored cocooning wraps and cross-cultural references from thobes to obis.
  • Harrods’ Simon Longland said the season favored quality, cut and craft with fewer theatrics, reflecting a push toward thoughtful, durable modern luxury.