Particle.news
Download on the App Store

Meryll Rogge Reorients Marni With Archive‑Minded, Wearable Debut at Milan Fashion Week

Early reviews highlight a faithful return to house codes intended to rebuild the label’s day‑to‑day relevance.

Overview

  • Rogge’s coed Fall/Winter 2026 debut on Feb. 26 revived Marni signatures—including polka‑dot motifs, oversized paillettes, the Trunk bag and a kitten‑heel Fussbett sandal—alongside heavy knitwear and a ’90s inflection.
  • Post‑show, Rogge said the goal was to bring the brand “back to real life,” emphasizing everyday wear through pragmatic layering, sporty outerwear and distinctive casting.
  • Industry reaction skewed positive, with Marni CEO Stefano Rosso praising the modern reinterpretation of house codes and voices like Eva Chen calling the collection true to Marni’s spirit, while some critics noted menswear may evolve further.
  • The set by Formafantasma staged a ‘familiar yet unsettled’ space of domestic and office cues, reinforcing the collection’s focus on elevating the quotidian.
  • The debut comes against OTB Group’s 2025 margin pressure tied to creative changes; Rogge, a Belgian designer with Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten pedigree and a 2025 ANDAM Prize win, is expected to continue her eponymous label.