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Julian Klausner Frames Dries Van Noten SS27 as Dreamy, Lingerie‑Inflected Menswear

Klausner used Mallarmé’s 'L’Après‑midi d’un faune' to shape a soft, nature‑rooted collection of sheer, easy‑to‑wear pieces that critics say confirms his command of the house.

Overview

  • Julian Klausner presented Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection in Paris, centering the show on a dreamlike, sensual narrative drawn from Stéphane Mallarmé’s poem.
  • The palette opened with peachy neutrals and moved through spice, sunrise and watery greens and blues to evoke forest and canopy tones across the line.
  • Klausner relied on ultra‑light fabrics — washed silks, chiffon, acetates, viscose, watery nylons and near‑sheer knits — to create floaty garments that move like lingerie rather than traditional suiting.
  • Silhouettes favored languid, easy‑to‑remove shapes such as dropped‑shoulder tops, silky short shorts, runny cargo pants and transparent trenches, a choice critics said felt both editorial and practical in Paris heat.
  • Reviewers praised the collection as a confident continuation of Dries Van Noten’s color and print legacy, while reporting a minor factual split over whether this is Klausner’s second menswear collection or his third show overall.