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Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

His leadership at REI plus his conservation work helped shape U.S. outdoor culture for decades.

FILE - Jim Whittaker is interviewed for the 50th Anniversary Celebration of the First American Ascent of Mount Everest in Berkeley, Calif., Feb. 22, 2013. (AP Photo/Jeff Chiu, File)
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Overview

  • His family confirmed he died at home in Port Townsend on Tuesday at age 97, and they did not release a cause.
  • He reached Everest’s summit in 1963 with Sherpa Nawang Gombu, a feat that drew national honors and sparked wider U.S. interest in mountaineering.
  • He helped build REI from its first full‑time employee to president and CEO, with co‑op membership growing from about 250,000 to more than 900,000 during his tenure.
  • He paired climbing with advocacy by leading 10 climbers with disabilities up Mount Rainier in 1981 and organizing the 1990 Everest International Peace Climb with U.S., Soviet, and Chinese teams.
  • His testimony aided creation of North Cascades National Park, the Pasayten Wilderness, and Redwood National Park, and tributes from figures like former Washington Gov. Jay Inslee highlighted his lasting influence.