Particle.news
Download on the App Store

Haider Ackermann Sharpens Tom Ford at Paris Fashion Week With Seductive Tailoring and Breakout High-Waisted Jeans

Ackermann recasts Ford-era glamour through precise tailoring to propose a subtler, less macho identity.

Overview

  • Staged in a stark white box under clinical light, the presentation swapped a traditional runway for choreographed, free‑form movement.
  • Slim, superhigh-waisted men’s denim marked a rare jeans moment for the house and quickly became the show’s buzziest item.
  • Experimental PVC designs—clear trenches, a rain cap, skirts, vests, and cropped jackets—expanded the collection’s glossy, image-forward edge.
  • Corporate inflections met subversive sexuality with banker shirts, skinny ties, and exposed-hip tailoring that evoked American Psycho.
  • Ackermann declined post-show interviews, leaving critics to frame the collection as a confident evolution of Tom Ford’s sex-forward codes.